Bedding in brakes is a simple DIY, here is a step by step,
1- From a speed of 100 km/h, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to
bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally
shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
2- Make a series of eight near-stops from 100 to about 15 km/h. Do it HARD
by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS.
At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 100km/h and
then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If
you stop completely and sit there with your foot on the brake pedal, you
will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration,
uneven braking, and even ruin the rotors.
3- The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade
will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully
cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.
4- After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a
while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need about 5
minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a
complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.
5- If race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction 01 are being
used, add four near-stops from 130 to 15 km/h.
6- After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray
film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached
break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer
onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking
occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across
the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque,
and maximizes pad and rotor life.
7- After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully
broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down
fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start
to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on
old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not
feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will
become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal
firmness.
1- From a speed of 100 km/h, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to
bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally
shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
2- Make a series of eight near-stops from 100 to about 15 km/h. Do it HARD
by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS.
At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 100km/h and
then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If
you stop completely and sit there with your foot on the brake pedal, you
will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration,
uneven braking, and even ruin the rotors.
3- The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade
will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully
cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.
4- After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a
while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need about 5
minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a
complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.
5- If race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction 01 are being
used, add four near-stops from 130 to 15 km/h.
6- After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray
film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached
break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer
onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking
occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across
the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque,
and maximizes pad and rotor life.
7- After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully
broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down
fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start
to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on
old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not
feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will
become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal
firmness.
Comment