Track bug biting; BRAKES setup!

[Ayham]

I have a question for our in-house track gurus, what would an ideal on-budget track brakes setup be? Considering that we have dealers who provide brands like Stoptech & XYZ locally...

The M3 brakes held great on the last track evening, but I was conscious as to not wear them out which means I could've pushed more but held back.

Awaiting your reply...

[Lutfy]

I have a question for our in-house track gurus, what would an ideal on-budget track brakes setup be? Considering that we have dealers who provide brands like Stoptech & XYZ locally...

The M3 brakes held great on the last track evening, but I was conscious as to not wear them out which means I could've pushed more but held back.

Awaiting your reply...

Ayhem,

The stock brakes will hold up just fine with the street tires. Its when you put in the R Comps and start driving 9/10s when you will find the stock brakes to be a limitation. With R comps, your corner exit speed will be higher. A higher speed by even 2 or 3 MPH (to say the least) will lead to much greater breaking force leading to more heat (1/2*mass*speed*speed) or speed squared.

The Stock E46 M3 braking system is adequate and with race pads, it will be just fine. Its going to be the wear since you will be operating at a much higher range and the 325mm rotor cannot decipate the heat.

For starters, I would get brake ducting for the car. This will help reduce the temps by 200 degree F which should have a huge impact on longevity of the rotors and pads. Once I have burnt out the stock rotors, then I would upgrade to:

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html...=E46M3CSLBRAKE

Since these are all CSL Parts, you can order them directly from your local BMW dealer ;) You need the rotors, caliper carriers and retaining screws and this would be a direct bolt on (the E36 M3, E46 M3 standard and the CSL or Competition package shares the same brake pads).

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...57&hg=34&fg=05

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...23&hg=34&fg=05

There is some rear kit featured on Turner's site, I dont know much about it, perhaps you can speak to Dough? I think Turner's prices are quite competitive but get a quote from the local dealer as well. You already have the part numbers listed on the Real OEM site.

With a set of stainless steel lines on all four corners and fresh ATE ($9 a liter nothing fancy) fluid with race pads such as DTC70s up front and DTC60s (on stock rear system as 70% of the braking is up front and the rears are quite adequate) your braking sytem is COMPLETE.

Hope this helps.

Lutfy

[Haissam]

mine are CSL brakes :drool: wanna buy? :p

[Bruno]

:drool:

it seems that soon i'll be going this direction

[Ayham]

Yea I've eyeballed the CSL upgrade but then again haven't seen any driver who's used it yet, maybe I quit looking for some time now. If it works for the CSL, which is the track-oriented derivative of the M3 then it works for me. I can get them here for cheaper me assumes using our connections to parts vendors. However, I suspect they'd be cleared with the 18" rims?!

SS lines are a must I must admit, I could feel some fading towards the end of the last session. Well, better days are coming!! ;)

Bruno, why do you want to do it?! Track wh*re now are ya??? hahahaha

[Bruno]

i want to do it simply because i have the american ****** non-drilled rotors. when the time comes i will be going that route. This doesn't mean the braking on my current rotors is horrible. i love them and they didn’t die on me yet

do you remember when i told that i can feel that the rotors got screwed on the track day? well they are perfect now. it repaired itself like magic. Don’t ask me how.

and since i'm a forum addict, i've been researching this few minutes back and i was able to read that some people have tracked their cars using ahmed's set up, and while at it i came across this.

Purpose: To allow cool air to route through the factory brake ducts so that the brake overheat slower

DIY:
1) Stick hand in drivers side brake duct and punch out cover
2) Stick hand in passenger side brake duct and punch out cover




Credit: .... :clueless:

Common sense, I suppose. Or BMW

[Nabil]

^ wow!

[Lutfy]

i want to do it simply because i have the american ****** non-drilled rotors. when the time comes i will be going that route. This doesn't mean the braking on my current rotors is horrible. i love them and they didn’t die on me yet

do you remember when i told that i can feel that the rotors got screwed on the track day? well they are perfect now. it repaired itself like magic. Don’t ask me how.

and since i'm a forum addict, i've been researching this few minutes back and i was able to read that some people have tracked their cars using ahmed's set up, and while at it i came across this.

Well you dont have the ****** US spec rotors. The US spec rotor is not floating since its not DOT (Dept. of Transportation) certified and it would cost a lot to get the certification hence they used the 1 piece rotor. Next the drills do not help much. Yes you would say Porsche and such have it but with time they get cracked. In fairness you dont have a disadvantage in braking there. The bigger rotor will NOT help you stop the car better. Better pads will. The advantage of the larger rotor is that it can decipate heat better hence better cooling.

I think I know what you are talking about the rotors being screwed at the track ;) Were they shuddering when you braked? If so, its pad deposit and they wear out with time.

The CSL rotors will clear 18 inch wheels for sure.

Lutfy