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    Bedding the New Brakes

    WORTH READING!

    Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures
    Removing the Mystery from Brake Pad Bed-In

    by Matt Weiss of StopTech and James Walker, Jr. of scR motorsports


    In order for any brake system to work optimally, the rotors and pads must be properly bedded-in, period. This process can also be called break-in, conditioning, or burnishing, but whatever terminology you choose, getting the brakes properly bedded-in and keeping them that way is critical to the peak performance of the entire brake system.

    However, understanding why the rotors and pads need to be bedded-in is just as important as the actual process. If one understands what is happening during the bed-in process, they can tailor the process to specific pads, rotors, and/or driving conditions. For this reason, we present this generic bed-in overview pertaining to all brake systems, but follow with links to application-specific bed-in procedures to fit most every set of circumstances.
    What is brake pad “bed-in” anyway?
    Simply stated, bed-in is the process of depositing an even layer of brake pad material, or transfer layer, on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc. That's it. End of discussion. Ok, not really, but although bed-in is quite basic in definition, achieving this condition in practice can be quite a challenge, and the ramifications of improper or incomplete bed-in can be quite a-a-n-n-o-o-y-y-i-i-n-n-g-g.

    Abrasive friction and adherent friction

    There are two basic types of brake pad friction mechanisms: abrasive friction and adherent friction . In general, all pads display a bit of each, with abrasive mechanisms dominating the lower temperature ranges while adherent mechanisms come more into play as pad temperature increases. Both mechanisms allow for friction or the conversion of Kinetic energy to Thermal energy, which is the function of a brake system, by the breaking of molecular bonds in vastly different ways.

    The abrasive mechanism generates friction or energy conversion by the mechanical rubbing of the brake pad material directly on the rotor disc. In a crystalline sense, the weaker of the bonds in the two different materials is broken. This obviously results in mechanical wear of both the pad and the rotor. Consequently, both pads and rotors are replaced when they are physically worn to their limit and are too thin to endure further service.

    The adherent mechanism is altogether different. In an adherent system, a thin layer of brake pad material actually transfers and sticks (adheres) on to the rotor face. The layer of pad material, once evenly established on the rotor, is what actually rubs on the brake pad. The bonds that are broken, for the conversion of Kinetic to Thermal energy, are formed instantaneously before being broken again. It is this brake pad-on-transferred brake pad material interaction on a molecular level that yields the conversion process.

    With the adherent mechanism there is much reduced rotor wear as compared to abrasive mechanism, but it's not a free lunch – pads now become the primary wear element in the braking system. And even though rotors are not mechanically worn down with adherent systems, they still will need to be replaced on a regular basis due to cracking reaching a point of failure if they are exposed to intense, repetitive thermal cycling. This is why race teams throw out rotors that are actually as thick or thicker than when they were brand new. It's due to the an adherent brake pad transfer layer!
    The all-important transfer layer

    As stated above, the objective of the bed-in process is to deposit an even layer of brake pad material, or transfer layer , on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc. Note the emphasis on the word even, as uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration.

    Let's say that again, just so there is no misunderstanding. Uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration.

    It only takes a small amount of thickness variation, or TV, in the transfer layer (we're only talking a few ten thousandths of an inch here) to initiate brake vibration. While the impact of an uneven transfer layer is almost imperceptible at first, as the pad starts riding the high and low spots, more and more TV will be naturally generated until the vibration is much more evident. With prolonged exposure, the high spots can become hot spots and can actually change the metallurgy of the rotor in those areas, creating “hard” spots in the rotor face that are virtually impossible to remove.
    Bedding fundamentals

    In general, bed-in consists of heating a brake system to its adherent temperature to allow the formation of a transfer layer. The brake system is then allowed to cool without coming to rest, resulting in an even transfer layer deposition around the rotor circumference. This procedure is typically repeated two or three times in order to ensure that the entire rotor face is evenly covered with brake pad material. Sounds easy, right? Well, it can be if you have the proper information.

    Because the adherent temperature range for brake pads varies widely (typically 100°F-600°F for street pads and 600°F-1400°F for race pads), each bed-in needs to be application-specific. One could try to generate a one-size-fits-all procedure, but too little heat during bed-in keeps the material from transferring to the rotor face while overheating the system can generate uneven pad deposits due to the material breaking down and splotching (that's a technical term) on to the rotor face.

    In summary, the key to a successful bed-in is to bring the pads up to their adherent operating temperature in a controlled manner and keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to successfully accomplish the bed-in. The recommended procedures below should provide you with the information you need to select the bed-in procedure appropriate for your application.

    __________________________________________________ __________

    Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures
    StopTech's Recommended Procedure for Bedding-in Performance Brake Systems

    by Matt Weiss of StopTech and James Walker, Jr. of scR motorsports



    When a system has both new rotors and pads, there are two different objectives for bedding-in a performance brake system: heating up the brake rotors and pads in a prescribed manner, so as to transfer pad material evenly onto the rotors; and maturing the pad material, so that resins which are used to bind and form it are ‘cooked' out of the pad.

    The first objective is achieved by performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad material are heated steadily to a temperature that promotes the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. There is one pitfall in this process, however, which must be avoided. The rotor and, therefore, the vehicle should not be brought to a complete stop, with the brakes still applied, as this risks the non-uniform transfer of pad material onto the friction surface.

    The second objective of the bedding-in process is achieved by performing another set of stops, in order to mature the pad itself. This ensures that resins which are used to bind and form the pad material are ‘cooked' out of the pad, at the point where the pad meets the rotor's friction surface.

    The bed-in process is not complete until both sets of stops have been performed. There's one exception, however. Some pad manufacturers sell ‘race-ready' pads, which have been pre-conditioned by flame heat-treating or laser etching, to provide a mature surface on the pad face. If race-ready pads are being used, then the second set of controlled stops is unnecessary. Also note that the same circumstances exist when a system to be bedded has new rotors and used pads (a strategy that professional teams use to break in their rotors ahead of time) one only has to perform a single set of stops to transfer pad material uniformly onto the new rotor.

    Note that, if the brakes of a vehicle with high-performance or racing pads are not used continuously in an aggressive manner, the transfer layer on the rotors can be abraded (literally worn off). However, the transfer layer can be re-established, if needed, by repeating one series of stops in the bed-in procedure. This process may be repeated as often as necessary during the life of the pad.

    This characteristic is useful when a system is already bedded-in with one pad friction and another is to be used going forward, like when changing between pad types for the street and track (and then after a track event, back again). The procedure under this case is different, where the new friction is installed and the vehicle is first driven for 5 to 20 miles (8 to 33 Km) with light use, keeping the pad friction and rotor cold. This promotes the abrasive friction mechanism cleaning the rotor surface of the previous pad material before performing either one or two bed-in cycles as prescribed below. One set of stops as outlined, if the pads being installed are used, two if the pads are actually new

    The bed-in procedures below outline the steps required to effectively bed-in performance brake systems. We strongly recommend that, in order to complete the bed-in safely, the bed-in procedures be conducted in dry conditions on a race track or other controlled environment, so as not to endanger yourself or others. Please note that we neither recommend nor condone driving at high speeds on public roads. While it is important to get enough heat into the system to effectively bed-in the brakes, it is even more important to exercise common sense at all times, and to conduct the bed-in procedure responsibly.
    Bedding-in Street-Performance Pads

    For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

    Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.

    As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
    Bedding-in Club Race or Full Race Pads

    For a typical performance brake system using race pads, the bed-in procedure must be somewhat more aggressive, as higher temperatures need to be reached, in order to bring certain brands of pad material up to their full race potential.

    We typically recommend a set of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, followed immediately by three or four partial braking events, from 80mph down to 10mph. Alternately, a set of eleven stops, from 80mph to 40mph, or a set of seven stops, from 100mph to 50mph, would be approximately the same. As with street pads, each of the partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

    Again, depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat about halfway through the first set of stops. This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in, except where race-ready pads are being used. This phenomenon is the same as that which occurs with high-performance or street pads (except that, when race-ready pads are used, they do not exhibit green fade, and they will be bedded-in after just one complete set of stops).

    As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when the recommended number of stops has been performed - not before. As a general rule, it would be better to perform additional stops, than not enough. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied.

    After cooling the vehicle, a second set of the recommended number of stops should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.

    Racers will note that, when a pad is bedded-in properly, there will be approximately 2mm (0.1 inch) of the pad edge near the rotor, on which the paint will have turned to ash, or the color of the pad will have changed to look as though it has been overheated.

    In summary, the key to successfully bedding-in performance brakes is to bring the pads up to their operating temperature range, in a controlled manner, and to keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to achieve a successful bed-in. The procedures recommended above should provide a useful starting point for developing bed-in procedures appropriate to individual applications.

    __________________________________________________ _______


    Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures
    StopTech's Recommended Procedure for Bedding-in Stock-Sized Brake Systems

    by Matt Weiss of StopTech and James Walker, Jr. of scR motorsports



    When a system has both new rotors and pads, there are two different objectives for bedding-in a performance brake system: heating up the brake rotors and pads in a prescribed manner, so as to transfer pad material evenly onto the rotors; and maturing the pad material, so that resins which are used to bind and form it are ‘cooked' out of the pad.

    The first objective is achieved by performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad material are heated steadily to a temperature that promotes the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. There is one pitfall in this process, however, which must be avoided. The rotor and, therefore, the vehicle should not be brought to a complete stop, with the brakes still applied, as this risks the non-uniform transfer of pad material onto the friction surface.

    The second objective of the bedding-in process is achieved by performing another set of stops, in order to mature the pad itself. This ensures that resins which are used to bind and form the pad material are ‘cooked' out of the pad, at the point where the pad meets the rotor's friction surface.

    The bed-in process is not complete until both sets of stops have been performed.
    Bedding-in Street Performance Pads

    For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

    Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.

    As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
    Bedding-in Club Race or Full Race Pads

    For a typical performance brake system using race pads, the bed-in procedure must be somewhat more aggressive, as higher temperatures need to be reached, in order to bring certain brands of pad material up to their full race potential.

    We typically recommend a set of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, followed immediately by three or four partial braking events, from 80mph down to 10mph. Alternately, a set of eleven stops, from 80mph to 40mph, or a set of seven stops, from 100mph to 50mph, would be approximately the same. As with street pads, each of the partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

    Again, depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat about halfway through the first set of stops. This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in, except where race-ready pads are being used. This phenomenon is the same as that which occurs with high-performance or street pads (except that, when race-ready pads are used, they do not exhibit green fade, and they will be bedded-in after just one complete set of stops).

    As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when the recommended number of stops has been performed - not before. As a general rule, it would be better to perform additional stops, than not enough. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied.

    After cooling the vehicle, a second set of the recommended number of stops should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.

    Racers will note that, when a pad is bedded-in properly, there will be approximately 2mm (0.1 inch) of the pad edge near the rotor, on which the paint will have turned to ash, or the color of the pad will have changed to look as though it has been overheated.

    In summary, the key to successfully bedding-in performance brakes is to bring the pads up to their operating temperature range, in a controlled manner, and to keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to achieve a successful bed-in. The procedures recommended above should provide a useful starting point for developing bed-in procedures appropriate to individual applications.


    if you came all the way to here to read this, you are a good boy ;)

    keep it up!

    #2
    FAQ #1: How can I tell if my brakes are bedded-in?
    This is a question without a single definitive answer; however, there are visual indicators on the rotor itself which can help determine the state of the bed-in.

    1. Rotor discoloration. Typically, there will be a bluish tint to a used rotor which is from heat. A more important color is a grayish tint or film on the face of the rotor where the pads touch. This color is actually from the pad material building up and is the best indication of how much pad material is adhered to the rotor. In general, if the rotor face is still shiny there is not enough pad material built up. Note that different pads will generate different appearances, so take notice of how the rotor appears before starting the bed-in process so you can recognize any difference after.

    2. Machining marks. On a new rotor, you can often use machining marks on the rotor face to assess the state of the bed-in. Typically, there will be either very slight grooves from turning the rotor (like a vinyl record – ask your parents) or more random marks from grinding the rotor surface during manufacturing. Prior to starting the bed-in process take a mental picture of the machining marks. If they are still very prominent following bed-in, you may not be bedding-in aggressively enough. In general it's alright if there are still slight traces of the machining marks after a few bed-in cycles, but you should definitely see them starting to go away.
    FAQ #2: What happens if I can't do the bed-in right away?

    Often times, weather or other conditions can prevent one from fully bedding-in the brakes before having to drive the car. Fortunately, this is not a dire situation. If you are running new street/performance pads and rotors, remember that they are designed for the street and will slowly bed-in by themselves over time. Typically just a few stops from moderate speeds will start the bed-in process for normal driving.

    In general, as long as the brakes are not overheated, you can drive them at normal street limits indefinitely without worrying about a formal bed-in. It's only when you get them good and hot that a fully bedded-in system becomes so important. This is why we recommend a slightly more aggressive bed-in procedure than most…we know performance brake customers are not “normal” and typically can't wait to try their new brakes at speed.
    FAQ #3: What do you mean I “un-bedded” the brakes?

    If any brake pad is used below its adherent operating temperature, it will create friction through primarily abrasive mechanisms, slowly but surely removing the transfer layer on the rotor. For this reason, most street/performance pads like to be driven just a little bit aggressively every now and again to maintain a proper transfer layer of pad material on the rotor face.

    If the brakes are used passively for an extended period of time, the transfer layer can be completely removed, effectively un-bedding the brakes. The brake system will still perform well under normal driving conditions, but before heading to the autocross or your favorite canyon back road you will want to perform a bed-in procedure. Failing to do so will only increase the risk of TV generation.
    FAQ #4: What precautions must be taken when switching from street pads to track pads?

    If you are changing pad compounds, such switching from street pads to track pads, you need to remove all of the material on the rotor and replace it with a fresh transfer layer of material from the new pads. To be honest, rotors do not like to have different compounds used on them, and virtually all rotor and pad manufacturers recommend that you do not swap pad compounds on the same rotors. The reality is, however, that most customers don't have two complete sets of rotors, so here are our recommendation for managing compounds between track and street use. Note that diligent bedding-in is the key.

    When switching from street pads to track pads, one needs to make sure that as much of the street compound is removed from the rotor as possible before aggressive track use. The risk here is that any street pad material remaining on the rotor will be subject to deterioration from overheating. This can ultimately cause severe vibrations due to uneven pad deposits (a smearing of the street pad material on the rotor face).

    A common method for removing street pad material is to install the track pad prior to driving to the event. Because most track pads operate in an abrasive mode during regular street operation, driving them to the track will wear off any existing brake pad material en route. You will know when the street pad material is gone by the squealing noises coming from your brakes after a short while…
    FAQ #5: What precautions must be taken when switching from track pads to street pads?

    Many people make the mistake of thinking that because they have a used set of pads in the past that the system does not need re-bedding when they are re-installed. Remember, the same material must be adhered to the rotor as the pad running against it for effective braking. Race pad material must be removed prior to street use.

    Since you're not as likely to overheat the rotors on the street after a track event, over time the street pads will remove and replace the track pad material on the rotors naturally. However, the best solution where street pads are being put back into service after a track day is to follow the original bed-in procedure for the street pads after the swap.
    FAQ #6: Do I need to bed-in new pads if I do not change pad compounds?

    Although you do not typically need to establish a fresh transfer layer for a new set of pads if they are of the same compound as the previous set of pads, there is still a need to mechanically seat the pad face to the rotor face. Because the pad and rotor wear together as a matched set, by the end of a pad's useful life the rotor face is usually not completely flat. Consequently, when installing new pads on a used rotor, there is a small window of time in which the new pads will rapidly wear down against the peaks and valleys of the existing rotor face. This process of re-establishing the wear interface is often referred to as burnishing.

    At the same time, new pads may need to be heated and cooled a few times before hard use in order to burn off all of the residual manufacturing resins and excess binding agents present in the pad compound. This process ensures that the exaggerated fade present in new pads (the “green” fade) is not experienced at speed when they are needed most. Unfortunately, this process of heating and cooling the pads is commonly referred to as bedding-in even though it has nothing to do with establishing a transfer layer. Gassing-out is a more appropriate term for this process.

    So, while establishing a transfer layer is not necessary with new pads of the same compound, performing a bed-in procedure will serve to establish the wear interface as well as to expose the pads to their green fade in a controlled environment. For this reason, we recommend performing a formal bed-in any time rotors, pads, or both are changed, regardless of pad compound or rotor manufacturer.
    FAQ #7: Is bedding-in on track different than bedding-in on the street?

    When bedding-in a system on the track, it is usually neither safe nor much appreciated if you start braking to a near stop multiple times per lap, so a different approach is necessary. A good rule of thumb is to start with 2 or 3 warm-up laps, slowly and evenly bringing the system up to temperature. Follow immediately with 2 or 3 laps at speed. Note that more laps may be appropriate for a light braking track, and fewer for a heavy braking track. Ambient temperature should also be a consideration, as a cooler day requires a few more stops at speed.

    After several laps at race pace using normal braking sequences, back off and let the system cool for 2 or 3 laps while staying off the brakes. Out of courtesy, maintain a reasonable speed and signal other drivers you are not running at full song.

    Following the cool down laps it is usually best to come into the pits and let the system fully cool. However, track time is typically limited so staying on course is compelling. If the brakes are firm and vibration-free, take it back to speed and you'll likely be OK.

    Comment


      #3
      I followed StopTech's bedding in procedure to the letter after installing the 380mm 6 pot system on my car! I get serious shaking when the brakes warm up!

      Haven't been able to figure out why?

      I mainly road use the car, but the few times I have tracked it, I have been disappointed by this problem!

      Comment


        #4
        Wirelessly posted (BlackBerry8520/4.6.1.272 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/212)

        Brake shaking when the discs get hot, especially under track conditions, is a common problem, specifically in street-oriented kits. Forget the size and pots number. Once they're cooler, say while driving back home, no more vibrations. Ofcourse, after a few track days, this becomes permanent and it's due to disc warping.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by designo View Post
          I followed StopTech's bedding in procedure to the letter after installing the 380mm 6 pot system on my car! I get serious shaking when the brakes warm up!

          Haven't been able to figure out why?

          I mainly road use the car, but the few times I have tracked it, I have been disappointed by this problem!
          have a look at

          http://bmwclubuae.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3820

          i also had the same problem before

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks Hassan!

            Great info!
            sigpic

            http://www.youtube.com/user/hashaikh11

            Comment


              #7
              Shudder is due to pad deposits on the rotor. A couple of HARD stops and or full throttle and getting on the brakes to get it warmed up takes care of this. I never believed in warped rotors (there is an article on this somewhere), just cracked rotors which needs to be thrown away.

              Been through some 100 sets of pads in my lifetime. A couple of hard stops at the track and the symptoms are gone. On my street car, I get on 120-0 stops a few times and fix it. Happened to my wife's LR2 upon new brake pad/rotor and fixed it the same way :)

              Lutfy

              Comment


                #8
                More on the warped discs Lutfy?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Ayham View Post
                  More on the warped discs Lutfy?
                  +1 yes we want MORE! :)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    StopTech got back to me with an explanation!

                    They claim that because they sent me street pads, when tracking the car the pads got too hot and left uneven pad material on the rotors! They told me that if I had tracked the car first, street drove it later, this would not have happened.

                    However, they propose I order track pads if I want to track the car. And just clean the rotors up, install the new pads and bed them in again!

                    I checked the rotors, no cracks, and not warped either!

                    So instead of re-bedding them, I decided to order the more aggressive pads and track the car next month!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Wirelessly posted (Mozilla/5.0 (iPhone; U; CPU iPhone OS 4_2_1 like Mac OS X; en-us) AppleWebKit/533.17.9 (KHTML, like Gecko) Version/5.0.2 Mobile/8C148 Safari/6533.18.5)

                      Very nice!

                      Please let us know how the new pads feel.

                      Thanks
                      sigpic

                      http://www.youtube.com/user/hashaikh11

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Wirelessly posted (BlackBerry8520/4.6.1.272 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/212)

                        Track pads will eliminate the juddering issue, they were successful on the M3 (Carbotech VS stock pads).

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Warped disc is a myth:

                          http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

                          Always run your rotors TILL the thickness is below manufacturer's spec and or the rotors have spider cracks which reach out the the outer rim. Until then, grind them away as consumables.

                          Lutfy

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Still waiting for my Pagid RS29's to arrive! 700 bucks for pads is insane, I don't know what I was thinking!!!!

                            Comment

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